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BrackneyC

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11 Posts

Topic started on 06/13/2004 at 10:44:25 PM  Member Profile  Reply with Quote
I recently (tonight) removed my smog pump, put in the new Uni filter (minus the top part of the airbox,) and rejetted. I did not drill the slide, nor did I shim the needle. I turned the mixture screw out 2 turns, and the bike ran terrible. It had such a stumble in the mid range that it was barely rideable. I removed the jets and put the screw back to about 1 turn out, and left the filter in. It runs just like it did before I did the jets. Question is, am I hurting the bike by leaving the new filter in with the snorkel removed, with stock jets? About how far out should the mixture screw be with this setup? It runs about the same as it did before, but I still have a slight hesitation right off the bottom. It did this before, and I had hoped to maybe get rid of the hesitation. Realizing that it is a 4 stroke, I know that the throttle response never be instant, but I just want to make sure that I am not going to be running it too lean with the current setup.

I'm sure that my jetting effort will be revisited soon, but I need to have more time to get it right than I did tonight.

One other question. In my smog pump kit, there were 4 small plugs and one big plug. I used the big plug, and one small plug. Is it possible that I have not properly blocked off all of the necessary vacuum ports? The instructions were pretty vague, and it said to find the two vacuum ports to block off, but I thought that since my bike was perhaps newer than the original 650, that maybe they had changed it so that I only needed to use one of the msall plugs. Thoughts?

dave_cl
Central NY

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USA
1214 Posts

Posted on 06/14/2004 at 09:51:55 AM  Member Profile  Visit dave_cl's Homepage
BC, what jets did you install?

The L is factory jetted quite lean, and the filter/snorkel changes will make it leaner. I wouldn't run it with those changes and the stock jets.

-Dave

'01 XR650L - keihin 158 main jet, 55 'long' pilot jet, screw out 2.5 turns, stock needle shimmed 0.035", slide holes drilled to 5/32, dynojet shorter CV spring installed, K&N filter, snorkel removed, stock exhaust, air pump removed, thermometer dipstick, MT21 90/90 front, huge mutant teraflex rear, 13-48 spkts. Central NY near Cortland
Articles: XR650L Carb Mods, DIY Dual Sport/Supermoto Helmet, XR650L Simplified Schematic for Safeties

mclum1
Kansas City, MO

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USA
44 Posts

Posted on 06/14/2004 at 11:53:54 AM  Member Profile
Brackney,

I looked in the other thread, but I didn't see you state the jets you are using. Are they Keihen, or DJ? I would suspect you are way too lean with your current setup, but check your plug to make sure.

If your using Keihen, 158 main, 55s pilot with the screw out 2-1/2 turns should be pretty good, with some minor fine tuning. Not shimming the stock needle could be causing some of the midrange problems.

Mike in KC

04 XR650L - D756 Rear, 15T/48T (st), 13T/48T (drt), Race Tech .46 fork springs & Eibach 12.5kg/mm shock spring, Acerbis 5.0 Gal Tank, Acerbis Fork/Disc guard, smog block-off, XRO thermo dipstick, SRC Fork brace/fork guards, Steahly Skid Plate, Renthal Banshee bars, FMF Q pipe, stock needle shimmed, 55 pilot (DJ), 165 main (DJ), slide drilled, Uni filter, de-snorkeled, Acerbis Rally Pro handguards
'94 XR250R (son's) Thumper 280 kit, Unifilter, Steahly Skid Plate

Lrules
Belleville, MI

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USA
236 Posts

Posted on 06/14/2004 at 7:29:03 PM  Member Profile
There is only one vacuum port to block off. It's the one that's the middle of the plastic T fitting coming from the carb. The other small plastic cap included with the IMS kit is just an extra. Even if you didn't shim the needle, it shouldn't have run that badly (depending on the jets of course). I would go back over everything, step by step. One way to have tested it would have been to put the snorkel back on with the new jets. If it ran better that way, the main jet is too small. If not, the problem isn't likely the jets.

'02 xr650L - Rejetted, needle shimmed, slide drilled, K&N air filter smog crap and snorkel removed, tiny tach, spitfire windshield, happy trails highway pegs, 1 inch Genmar risers, PD lowering link.

BrackneyC

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11 Posts

Posted on 06/14/2004 at 8:28:08 PM  Member Profile
This maybe the worst question ever, but the snorkel is the top piece on the airbox, right? I hate to sound simple, and as a rider for 30+ years, I should know this, but did I even remove the right part of the airbox? Please advise. :)

dave_cl
Central NY

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USA
1214 Posts

Posted on 06/15/2004 at 07:34:39 AM  Member Profile  Visit dave_cl's Homepage
Yes the snorkel is on the top. What jets, and from where? What size jets (#)?

'01 XR650L - keihin 158 main jet, 55 'long' pilot jet, screw out 2.5 turns, stock needle shimmed 0.035", slide holes drilled to 5/32, dynojet shorter CV spring installed, K&N filter, snorkel removed, stock exhaust, air pump removed, thermometer dipstick, MT21 90/90 front, huge mutant teraflex rear, 13-48 spkts. Central NY near Cortland
Articles: XR650L Carb Mods, DIY Dual Sport/Supermoto Helmet, XR650L Simplified Schematic for Safeties

BrackneyC

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11 Posts

Posted on 06/15/2004 at 10:10:17 AM  Member Profile
I put in a 55 pilot, and a 168 main.(both Keihin) Here is the thing though. The main jet was way to long, so I took my grinder to it so the float bowl would fit back on the carb. I was very careful to make sure I did a good job of grinding it, but it still ran poorly. I will admit that the main jet may have been the issue, and I am going to get the right one (regular screwdriver head instead of hex head) and try this again. I called the dealer, and they only offer a 157.5 or a 160, but not a 158. Should I go with the 160, or the 157.5.

dave_cl
Central NY

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USA
1214 Posts

Posted on 06/16/2004 at 07:34:56 AM  Member Profile  Visit dave_cl's Homepage
Wow, this is freaky. This is a carb from an XR650L?
Hit sudco.com, or baja designs, and get the jets from there.

The jet you got was a hex-head and it screwed into the brass hex-piece that threads into the carb (jet-holder/emulsion tube)?

'01 XR650L - keihin 158 main jet, 55 'long' pilot jet, screw out 2.5 turns, stock needle shimmed 0.035", slide holes drilled to 5/32, dynojet shorter CV spring installed, K&N filter, snorkel removed, stock exhaust, air pump removed, thermometer dipstick, MT21 90/90 front, huge mutant teraflex rear, 13-48 spkts. Central NY near Cortland
Articles: XR650L Carb Mods, DIY Dual Sport/Supermoto Helmet, XR650L Simplified Schematic for Safeties

BrackneyC

BrackneyC has no Avatar

11 Posts

Posted on 06/16/2004 at 12:45:44 PM  Member Profile
Yes, it screwed into the brass fitting. It is a stock carb. Is this normal?

dave_cl
Central NY

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USA
1214 Posts

Posted on 06/16/2004 at 7:13:18 PM  Member Profile  Visit dave_cl's Homepage
The jet you got was def. not the right one!

'01 XR650L - keihin 158 main jet, 55 'long' pilot jet, screw out 2.5 turns, stock needle shimmed 0.035", slide holes drilled to 5/32, dynojet shorter CV spring installed, K&N filter, snorkel removed, stock exhaust, air pump removed, thermometer dipstick, MT21 90/90 front, huge mutant teraflex rear, 13-48 spkts. Central NY near Cortland
Articles: XR650L Carb Mods, DIY Dual Sport/Supermoto Helmet, XR650L Simplified Schematic for Safeties

Lrules
Belleville, MI

Lrules has no Avatar

USA
236 Posts

Posted on 06/17/2004 at 12:24:32 PM  Member Profile
You need a 99101-393- series round head main jet, and a #158 would be about right. I'm surprised your bike ran at all. Call Sudco or Carbparts com. Dealers are morons.

'02 xr650L - Rejetted, needle shimmed, slide drilled, K&N air filter smog crap and snorkel removed, tiny tach, spitfire windshield, happy trails highway pegs, 1 inch Genmar risers, PD lowering link.
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