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TrikDRZ
02 DRZ400S
USA
27 Posts |
Topic started on 12/13/2003 at 9:47:38 PM
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Looking for instructions on Matt Nelson's DRZ400 tail lamp and turn signal modification. Want to remove the tail lamp plastic spacer and shorten the length of the turn signals. Pulled it apart today to check it out, and can't determine how to separate the plastic spacer from the tail lamp unit assembly, and then remount it so it fits flush back on the rear fender drop down.
Thx |
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MutualBill
Kansas City, MO
USA
39 Posts |
Posted on 03/28/2004 at 10:29:30 PM
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I started to do that...but decided to save it for another time. I did not want to find a place to dsconnect the wires...nor did I want to find a way to splice the wires at this time.
However...I did get far enough before turning back to know that after you unbolt the light from the fender that there is a gasket that must be removed to expose to philips head screws inside the exstension. You should be able to remove the screws, remove the extension...and then most likley just screw the light to the fender using the existing holes. At least that is what I expect to find.
I did go ahead and cut off the fender below the license plate. I used a straight edge to scribe a line about 3/4" below the plate...and then used my air powered cut off wheel to cut it clean and shape the corners. Turned out real nice.
Here is another thought that I will likely complete once I remove the light exstension. The fender looks like it was designed to have the plate mounted flush on it. However it appears the factory opted for a license plate bracket in order to make the light shine down on the plate. If you remove the light extension, consider removing the license plate bracket so that it does not stick out like a sore thumb. |
2003 Kawasaki KLX 400 SR
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 |
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TrikDRZ
02 DRZ400S
USA
27 Posts |
Posted on 03/29/2004 at 12:58:20 PM
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| i figured that out. thanks for the scoop, however the phillips head screws on mine were "frozen" and i could not bust them loose for anything. i started mangling the plastic in the process, so i just gave up. mute point now anyway, since right after that about 2 months ago, i bottomed out HARD crossing a drop off/ravine and the tire proceeded to rip the wires right out from the lamp and signal assemblies. ultimatey i just removed everything. pretty much strictly a dirt bike now. eventually going to mount more of a typical triangle shaped e model lamp, more forward on the rear fender. |
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MutualBill
Kansas City, MO
USA
39 Posts |
Posted on 03/29/2004 at 2:21:51 PM
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Yeah...I noticed the screws being rather tight myself. The must have used so pretty tough locktite on them babies. It was another factor in saving this project for another time.
I would have to maintain my street legality. Dirt only is not, nor has it ever been an option for me. Not near enough places to ride to justify that kind of dedicated puprose in my area around Kansas City. |
2003 Kawasaki KLX 400 SR
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 |
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jdjoneses
04 DRZ400S
USA
22 Posts |
Posted on 04/04/2004 at 8:14:18 PM
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Here's a link to pics of what my riding buddy did to mine. It came out pretty cool! You do have to drill new holes to remount the light
(Removed dead pic link. -Admin) |
2004 DRZ400S |
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Maine2Stroker
Maine
USA
7 Posts |
Posted on 03/15/2006 at 08:59:12 AM
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howdy,
picked up a mint 04drz400s with all street miles on it at the beggining of winter for $2300 bucks! been starting to get it ready for spring and came across Matt nelsons' tips section.
i was tyring to do the taillight mods last weekend.
i took it all apart and cut off and shaped the fender (came out nice)
i was also hoping to get rid of the spacer on the tail light. When i took it out, the holes didnt really line up, and the light back was too long for the light assembly to sit flush unless you turned it upside down (wich would make the liscense plate light point upwards). I'm assuming you need to cut out a relief for the light bulb back, and then cover it somehow to keep the dirt and water out? and also drill new mounting holes, or at least modify the ones there so the angle lines up.
Do you have any more specific information on dropping the spacer or making the cuts?
also, i hadnt gotten to look at the blinkers yet, but if i do take the spacers off them, do i just chop the rod and have it re threaded?
Also i swapped out the handlbars for my renthall twinwalls
the stock throttle has a hole in the end for the bar ends
is there a replacement thottle that has a solid end
id rather put that type on b4 i put my new grips on
Thanks
Thanks a bunch!
hoping to enjoy the world of dual sport soon
Koren Roy |
2001 YZF426F |
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Maine2Stroker
Maine
USA
7 Posts |
Posted on 03/25/2006 at 09:29:24 AM
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Well since no one helped me i just went ahead and did it
so if anyone else needs some info here ya go
I took a 15mm socket put it on a t handle wrench and put it on my kitchen burner for about 5 minutes on high
when it was hot, i melted a hole through the mudguard righ about where the angle starts. This allowed for the relief for the back of the bulb/electircal part. i then took a screw driver and heated it in the same manner and melted slots into the current mounting holes (for the taillight spacer). The slots i melted were almost to the complete left on the left hole and the complete right on the right hole. I actually think there might be enough room to just drill 2 new holes and not break into the old hole locations, but it would be a tight squeeze.
Now since the spacer is gone, and the holes are at an angle, when you tighten the screws, it just wants to push the tailight up as you tighten. To solve this i made 2 little brackets out of plastic(metal would be good to 2mm or thinner). Shape one end to fit up against the inside of the mud guard, and the other just square off and put a small slot in it that ligns up with the screw location.
the left and right bracket you make will be mirror images of each othere. now put the brackets in and tighten the screws. The brackets push against the inside of the mud guard and keep the tailight from moving while you continue tightening. It came out rock solid.
I then took it appart, and put the tailight in a plastic bag and reinstalled it. Then I sealed the exposed light/elctrical area with a black silicone. Let is sit for a day or so, then take the light off and remove the bag. Put it back together and you should be in businness
The blinkers i cut down using a serrated parring knife.
just take them apart and then slowly start cutting away on the sides mimicking the stock shape. (go slowly so that you can keep testing it for a proper fit) if you cut to much you are SOL.
i cut to a depth that left one ridge on the stock setup. I figured if i cut the shape too small, this might give me a chance to widen up while eliminating the last ridge. I didnt need to though, as them came out perfect, so they both have just the one ridge showing.
Both of these mods and the modifying the length of the mud gaurd came out fantastic. The look so much better then factory, but as good as factory. (basicaly if you looked at the finished product and didnt know better you would not be able to tell it was modified.)
Hope i helped out someone
Regards,
Koren Roy |
2001 YZF426F |
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Maine2Stroker
Maine
USA
7 Posts |
Posted on 07/24/2008 at 10:34:30 AM
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Before and After Modifications
Plastic Brackets i made from a broken keyboard
Holes
Brackets / Tailight / Silicone
Fender Shape / Cut
Finished Blinkers Assembled
(Thumbnailed images. -Admin) |
2001 YZF426F |
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tiernanturner
USA
1 Posts |
Posted on 03/03/2009 at 5:26:38 PM
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| Did anyone actually get the two screws out that hold the metal plate to the plastic box spacer? How? |
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Topic |
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Suzuki DRZ400S Tail Lamp & Turn Signal Mod
