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 Rim Bead Lock Installation
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tomass
Ocala, FL

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USA
475 Posts

Topic started on 01/23/2005 at 11:23:29 AM  Member Profile  Reply with Quote
I have an 02 DRZ 400-S and I'm gonna be replacing my worn out Dunlop 606 rear tire for a new one soon and I would like to put a rim-lock on while I have the tire off. Is there a kit out there somewhere that I can get to put one on my bike? My bike doesn't come with rim-locks on it so a hole will need to be drilled in the rim to install it. Some step by step instructions on how to do the job would be nice.
Thanks.
Tom

02 DRZ400S

Admin
4Strokes.com

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7798 Posts

Posted on 01/27/2005 at 3:33:40 PM  Member Profile  Visit Admin's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Just for you, Tom:

4Strokes.com Tech: Rim Lock / Bead Lock / Bead Stopper Installation

If you get a chance to snap some pictures we'll put them in the article.

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tomass
Ocala, FL

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475 Posts

Posted on 01/27/2005 at 4:45:12 PM  Member Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you very much. That article is exactly what I needed. Also, my wifes new digital camera, that Santa gave her, will come in very handy.
Thanks again.

02 DRZ400S

Admin
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Posted on 01/27/2005 at 7:29:08 PM  Member Profile  Visit Admin's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You are very welcome Tom.

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tomass
Ocala, FL

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475 Posts

Posted on 02/05/2005 at 6:24:03 PM  Member Profile  Reply with Quote
I went riding today, in the Ocala National Forest, and I noticed after a while that my front tire was flat. Well, one of the trails we were on, brought us to State Road 40. We were near a convenience store so I went and paid 75 cents for 5 seconds worth of air and hit the trails again. The tire went flat shortly after so I went home. Well, when I got it home, I found that the tube had tore away from the valve stem. I like to keep the tire pressure low (10lbs.) for sand.

I would have thought that the back tire would be more succeptible to such things rather than the front. But I use the front brake much more than the back because the back brake doesn't come close to the stopping power of the front. That has to be what caused the tear. There's no other way on the front.

Well, last week, I ordered a rim lock for my rear tire and it cost $42 dollars and change. That seems insane for such a simple device. But that's the price you pay for "Original Equipment". I was wondering if someone knows the exact size rim lock for my front rim. I've seen sizes like, 1.40,1.60, 1.85, 2.15, and 2.50. These were good quality rim locks, that weren't Orig. Equip. and the most expensive one I saw was $18.95. Are any of the sizes mentioned, the right size for my front rim? Suzuki charges over $30.00. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

02 DRZ400S

Admin
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Posted on 02/06/2005 at 07:41:39 AM  Member Profile  Visit Admin's Homepage  Reply with Quote
If you have a standard 21" front tire and rim, the rim lock should be the 1.60 size.

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tomass
Ocala, FL

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475 Posts

Posted on 02/06/2005 at 09:21:37 AM  Member Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks. It is the standard rim.

02 DRZ400S

doubleodevine
Brighton, MI

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Posted on 02/09/2005 at 9:18:37 PM  Member Profile  Send doubleodevine an AOL message  Send doubleodevine a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
i was actually pretty suprised when i saw the valve stem on my 200 start to get a funny angle also...its amazing what a little stopping can do

Ride it like you stole it!

tomass
Ocala, FL

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475 Posts

Posted on 02/15/2005 at 12:09:20 PM  Member Profile  Reply with Quote
Well, I installed the rim-locks front and rear. They were quite simple to put on. Getting a tire off and then on again is the harder part. I learned a good lesson. Make sure you spray a generous amount of soapy water on the rim and tire. I guess I didn't spray enough the first time because I had a hell of a time removing it(the back tire) and putting the new one back on. I strained so hard the first time, that I got careless with a screwdriver and put 6 holes in my tube, which I didn't know until I got the tire on and attempted to put air in it. It was quite disheartening after all that struggle. After an hour of sulking,(and buying a new tube) I went back at it. I sprayed the hell out if it with soapy water, being certain that I get every nook and cranny, and that damn tire came off with incredible ease. I switched out the tubes, sprayed the hell out of it, and that sucker went on with, literally, 1/3rd the effort as the first time. Like they say, you learn from your mistakes. My right shoulder is still sore from that mistake.

If anyone wishes to put rim-licks on their "S" model, the size for the front rim-lock is 1.60,(Thanks Admin) and the rear one is 2.15. These sizes are only for the stock rims. They're inexpensive if you go with aftermarket. About $25.00 for the pair, as apposed to $75.00 for "Orriginal Equipment".

02 DRZ400S

Dezracer
Canoga Park, CA

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4 Posts

Posted on 06/26/2005 at 9:45:28 PM  Member Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Next comes the rim band. This goes over the top of the rim lock, basically holding it in place. Be sure to align the rim band's hole with the hole in the rim for the inner tube's valve stem. Now install the completely deflated tube into the tire, over the top of the rim lock and rim band, as flat and unwrinkled/untwisted as possible. Align the valve stem so it points straight at the wheel axle. Spin on the nuts for both the rim lock and valve stem, but just a little bit -- only a few threads

Although it is informative, this article fails to mention 2 key things whenever a person is mounting a tire. 1- ALWAYS coat a tube, weather it's a new one or not, with a generous amount of BABY POWDER. This will help to prevent the tube from "Chafing" or scuffing in the tire. 2- THROW THAT RUBBER BAND/ BRA STRAP, in the trash. These thing are about as valuable as a screen door on a Submarine. Instead, put a couple of wraps of GOOD QUALITY Duct Tape in place of the rubber band and after it's wrapped, pop out the holes for the Valve stem and the Rim lock stem.

KTM

Dpundrprssur
Ontario

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Canada
1 Posts

Posted on 09/12/2012 at 11:36:14 AM  Member Profile  Reply with Quote
I know this thread is old but I just thought I would comment on a couple of things. The first is what Dezracer says if true, get rid of the rim tape but don't replace it with duct tape use electricians tape. The reason for this is that the duct tape hold water where the electricians tape does not and therefore your rim will not corrode over the years. The second thing is about the valve stem moving. Yes, they all do it and sometimes even with rim locks. The trick is, never, never tighten the valve stem nut down on the rim. The nut is only used for holding the stem when changing the tire and for putting air in a flat tire, it is not a rim lock. once you have air in your tire put the cap on your valve stem and snug the nut finger tight up against the cap. This will allow the valve stem to move and lean without ripping a hole in the tube. When you notice it is leaning a lot, let the air out of the tire, loosen the rim lock and spin the tire back until it is straight again or even leaned a little in the other direction...

dave_cl
Central NY

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1404 Posts

Posted on 09/13/2012 at 09:41:26 AM  Member Profile  Visit dave_cl's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Spinning the tire on the rim isn't easy, usually.

Once you get the wheel in the air, let the air out, loosen the rim lock, and break the bead you can spin the wheel and then jamb on the brakes, the tire will move a wee bit, just do that a few times until the stem is straight.


01 XR650L - Keihin 158 main jet, 55 'long' pilot jet, screw out 2.5 turns, stock needle shimmed 0.035, slide holes drilled to 5/32, dynojet shorter CV spring installed, foam filter, snorkel removed, stock exhaust, air pump removed, thermometer dipstick, XCMH fr/r tires, 14-48 spkts.
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