There are numerous aftermarket high output stators available
for the Honda XR400R. I opted for a brand new 200w unit. The
stock stator is capable of putting out 80-100w from the lighting
coils. I wanted more because I was installing dual headlights,
and possibly other electrical accessories in the future, like
maybe a 12" subwoofer and amplifier! 
My installation went as follows:
- Drain the oil out of the engine or find a way to support
the bike while it lays on its side, to avoid oil draining
into the stator/flywheel area.
- Disconnect the electrical wires coming from the stator
to the wiring harness, which is a plug (green and yellow/blue)
and four single wires (brown, pink/black, pink and yellow.
Remove the wire harness from the two clamps holding it onto
the frame and above the sprocket cover.
- Removing the gear shifter. Then loosen and remove the nine
bolts and one nut holding the left crankcase cover. If it
is stuck after the hardware is removed, use a rubber mallet
and gently tap around the outside to loosen. Do not pry the
cover off, as this will damage the mating surfaces.
- Remove bolts holding the wiring harness clamps. There are
three bolts total; one holding the grommet clamp and two
holding the ignition pulse generator. Next loosen and remove
the three stator bolts.
- Before installing the new stator, completely clean the
mating surfaces of the engine and cover. I like to use gasket
cleaner or carb cleaner and a good scraper, found at any
local hardware or auto parts store. Note: removing the dowel
pins will help when scraping the mating surfaces.
- Put thread-lock on the three stator bolts and install the
stator into the cover. Install and tighten the remaining
three bolts with their respective covers, again with thread-lock.
Make sure when routing the wire harness to keep in under
the stator so the flywheel doesn't rub against it.
- Next clean the mating surfaces of the engine case and cover.
With a new gasket (Honda P/N: 11395-KCY-671) and thread-lock,
install the cover on the engine and torque all nine bolts
and the one nut to 7ft-lbs.
- Route the stator wire harness the same way as the stock
one, along through the sprocket cover clamp and the side
frame clamp. Don't forget to put thread-lock on the nuts
and bolts.
- Here is the most confusing part,
connecting the old to the new. I have devised a chart with
a dual sport kit that should help:
| |
Stator to Stock or Dual Sport Wire Harness |
Stock Wire Harness |
Dual Sport Wire Harness |
W
I
R
E |
Green and Yellow/Blue |
Green and Yellow/Blue |
|
| Brown |
Brown |
|
| Red/Black |
Pink/Black |
|
| Green |
(a) Pink |
(b) Yellow |
| White |
(a) Yellow |
(b) Yellow |
- If you followed the dual sport
kit wiring, you will have two open wires (a). I suggest taping
them up because the new
rectifier is part of the dual sport kit, which the two yellow
wires (b) connect to.
- Recheck that everything is in its proper place, and all fasteners are
tight. Put oil back into the engine, if drained. Now the fun
part, fire it up and see the difference in light output. I
put in new bulbs, and wow!
You now have 200-watts of power to play with! Bring on the
sound system!
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