XR650L Carburetor Mods by Dave Closs and Brian Jackson
This XR650L carburetor modification to commonly referred to as Dave's Carb
Mods. Below is a republished article of Dave Closs and Brian Jackson's XR650L
carb mods that was originally posted in our Forums. These mods may correct the
stock lean condition thus allowing the motor to run much cooler. Also the low
and mid range power will increase substantially and throttle response will be
liquid smooth compared to stock. Brian considers this almost mandatory for any
XR650L. Though intended for 1993-2004 Honda XR650L models, these carburetor
mods may work on other model bikes that use the Keihin 42.5mm diaphragm-type
1. Cables and Hoses
2. Items to Remove
3. Remove Top and Bottom
4. Mixture Screw Access
5. Mixture Screw Mod
6. Cut Mixture Screw
7. Cut Mixture Screw Installed
8. Drill Slide 5/32"
9. Slosh Baffle Mod
10. New Jets Installed
Be clean as possible. Clean the carb exterior really well before removing
it so nothing gets into the intake manifold or head. Always clean out all metal
shavings and dust from the carb before reassembly. Before starting any work
run your carburetor dry of gas. Do this by running the engine with the fuel
petcock valve off until it dies (runs out of fuel).
Make sure the fuel petcock valve is set to off. Disconnect the fuel line at
the carb and remove the seat and fuel tank.
Remove the throttle cables, hoses, choke cable, fuel line, rear brake reservoir
and its bracket. Make sure to note all connections so you can put things back
to where they were. (Figure 1 and Figure
Loosen the hose clamps on either end of the carb.
Squeeze the intake tube (from the airbox to the carb) back and out of the
way. You can pull the carb out of the frame now to the right side quite easily.
Cover the intake to the head with at least a clean towel. Make sure not even
dust gets in there.
Remove the top and bottom plates of the carb by removing 4 screws on each
end. (Figure 3)
Remove mixture screw now that it can be turned. (Figure
Grind off the tab on the mixture screw as shown in Figure
5 and Figure 6, or as Dave did, grind
the tab off the carb body instead of the mixture screw. See Figure
7 for the tab on the carb.
Reinstall by turning all the way to the bottom, lightly seating it and then
backing it out appropriately. (Most seem to think 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 will run best.)
Remove large spring and slide from top of carb, under the top cover.
The Needle: When removing the slide, the needle is held into the bottom of
the slide by a little yellow widget that you press down on and turn a little
with a screwdriver or an 8mm socket. When you remove the little yellow widget,
the needle comes right out. Notice the needle sits in a small recess. Find a
small washer that is 0.020-0.030" thick and fits fairly snugly over the
needle at the thickest part at the top. The needle will be raised by the thickness
of the washer. If you don't already have a washer that works, check your local
hardware store. Some folks have found a similar washer in a kit from Radio Shack
(needle and washer close-up).
In the bottom of the slide, drill out the two existing holes to 5/32"
per the photo. (Figure 8)
Reinstall with washer, as removed earlier. Make sure to seat the slide bowl
(terminology?) properly and align the tab correctly. (Figure
On the bottom of the carb, remove the plastic piece (slosh baffle) that is
partially covering the pilot/slow jet. (Figure
9) Note: If you use the longer style pilot/slow jet, you will need to clearance
the slosh baffle to accommodate it.
Gently unscrew the brass jets. The longer larger one is the main jet and the
shorter flush-mount one on the pilot or slow jet. Gently screw in the new jets.
Place the plastic piece back over the main jet and install the carburetor
bowl. (Figure 9)
That is the end of the carb mods. Check for smooth operation of everything,
clean well with carb cleaner, and reinstall the carb on the bike. After installation,
recheck the operation of the throttle and adjust of necessary.
With the stock exhaust at sea level and no gasohol, the jetting should be
around 55/158. Jet leaner for higher altitude, richer for gasohol, or richer
for aftermarket exhaust.
These XR650L carburetor modifications work
in conjunction with a free-flowing aftermarket style air filter and removed
airbox snorkel. These modifications might actually make your dirt bike run worse
without replacing the stock air filter and pulling the air-box snorkel.
Credits: This article was published from forum topics posted
by Dave Closs and Brian Jackson. Edited by 4Strokes.com.
Disclaimer: This article is intended as a guide only.
No responsibility is taken by Dave Closs, Brian Jackson or 4Strokes.com.